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Scottish Sunday

Rebuilt Partition Captures German Mood of Cultural Resentment and Economic Woe

They’ve rebuilt the wall in Berlin. A 200-metre stretch of whitewashed concrete, three metres high and with the distinctive rounded top of the original, has been erected beside Checkpoint Charlie to mark the 15th anniversary of the fall of the wall on November 9, 1989. A commemorative project commissioned by the Berlin Wall Museum, it has proved hugely controversial, with some in the German capital regarding it as a crass exercise in “commercialising memory”. But few would argue with its potency as a symbol of the divisions which persist in the country today.

The Identity Crisis of Germany

Berlin may have been transformed in the last 15 years into an über-chic city of contemporary architecture and cosmopolitan nightlife, but Germany is undergoing an identity crisis as serious as any in its turbulent post-cold war history. The poor health of Germany’s economy – Europe’s largest – means that all Germans, but particularly easterners, are having to adjust to life without the generous state support which has been one of this country’s hallmarks. Blame is being bandied between east and west, and relations are being soured. Interweaving layers of uncertainty, both domestic and international, mean that Tuesday will be a quiet affair. What should have been an occasion for celebration will at best provide a brief respite from the turmoil of German upheaval, or may simply underline the differences between east and west.

Berlin: The New Centre of Gravity

In Berlin, the whole centre of gravity has shifted definitively to the east. There have been 700 new buildings put up in the city centre alone since reunification, most east of the wall. Here, Bertelsmann, the German media giant, has rebuilt in baroque splendour Number One Unter den Linden, arguably the most prestigious address in Berlin. Nearby, Museum Island is now one of the city’s principal attractions, where visitors can view treasures such as the original gates of Babylon.

There is even a burgeoning taste for Osstalgie, or nostalgia for aspects of life in the former east, such as food, music, and TV programmes. But that does not mean the east is always accepted as an equal partner in the Federal Republic.

Accusations and Disappointment

The Berlin listings magazine Zitty has commemorated the anniversary of the Wende, or great change, as the fall of the wall is called here, by publishing two different editions, one for each half of the city. One features the Brandenburg Gate seen from the east with the headline, 1000 Reasons to Love the West; the other takes the opposite viewpoint. The editorial reads: “Many Berliners still think their side of the city is much better, prettier, and more colourful. But is it really?”

“After living half my life in the former GDR and half in the Federal Republic of Germany, I would never live in west Berlin,” explains Sebastian Liebig in the east Berlin apartment he shares with wife, Anja, and their children Charlotte, 4, and Jonathan, 6. “It’s a heart thing. It’s a feeling. You don’t see the border lines, but you feel the border between east and west.”

Sebastian graduated in civil engineering last November, but hasn’t found a proper engineering job. Anja, who has just graduated, is about to start a job as a social worker. Anja says people in the former east do not expect everything laid out on a plate for them – an accusation that west Germans often level at Ossies. “But I think east Germans are disappointed because [German Chancellor in 1989] Kohl said all would be good and now they’re without a job,” she adds. Unemployment in Germany has risen to over 10 %, but the figures are far higher in all six of the former eastern states. In Berlin, the average rate is 17.4%, while in Mecklenburg-Pomerania, in the north-east, it stands at 20%. The southwest of Germany has 6%.

Economic Hardships and Political Shifts

Soaring jobless totals are blamed on an increasingly competitive global market, and the German government has introduced austerity measures to change the profile of a highly-skilled but inflexible workforce with historically high wages and social benefits, while also reforming welfare.

However, the socialist government of Gerhard Schroeder has also said that it can no longer afford to pump almost €100 billion a year into the former east to encourage reunification. Instead, money is to be targeted at existing areas of growth, and the advice to those living in areas which lose out is simple: move. Many have, and as a result, depopulation – and resentment – is rife in much of the former east.

Support for mainstream political parties in the east is haemorrhaging, with gains for neo-Nazi parties and especially the former communists in last month’s elections to the devolved parliaments in Saxony-Anhalt and Brandenburg. West Germans regard the election results as an embarrassment and a further slap in the face after their generosity.

Hotels in Berlin

If you are planning a trip to Berlin to witness the cultural shifts and economic challenges firsthand, finding the right accommodation is vital. Berlin offers a wide range of hotels that cater to different budgets and preferences.

Luxury Hotels
  • Hotel Adlon Kempinski: Located near Brandenburg Gate, this 5-star hotel offers luxurious rooms, Michelin-starred dining, and impeccable service.
  • The Ritz-Carlton Berlin: Situated in the city center, this elegant hotel features spacious rooms, a rooftop terrace, and a spa.
Mid-Range Hotels
  • Melia Berlin: This stylish hotel is located in the trendy Mitte district and offers comfortable rooms, a fitness center, and a rooftop terrace with panoramic views.
  • Hotel Indigo Berlin - Centre Alexanderplatz: Perfect for art enthusiasts, this boutique hotel combines contemporary design with local flair and is conveniently located near Alexanderplatz.
Budget-Friendly Options
  • Generator Berlin Mitte: This trendy hostel offers budget-friendly private rooms and dormitory-style accommodation, as well as a lively bar and communal areas.
  • MEININGER Hotel Berlin East Side Gallery: Situated next to the iconic East Side Gallery, this budget hotel offers modern and comfortable rooms in the heart of Berlin's creative scene.

When visiting Berlin, consider booking your hotel in advance to secure the best rates and availability. Whether you prefer luxurious amenities or budget-friendly options, Berlin has a range of hotels to suit every traveler's needs.

The section of wall rebuilt at Checkpoint Charlie is to be pulled down in January. The legacy of the original Berlin wall looks like it will take far longer to disappear.

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