George Mackay Brown: A Literary Portrait of Orkney
WEATHERED like one of Orkney’s ancient standing stones, George Mackay Brown’s familiar face looks out across the Sound of Hoy. Invariably, he is pictured standing on the jetty opposite his house in Stromness, a favourite haunt where he could study the “tremulous silk” of the sea as it slithered into Hamnavoe, the old Viking name for the town’s harbour. On a clear day, in May, say, or late summer, he could see forever, beyond the incoming St Ola ferry, the islands’ link with mainland Scotland, freighted with supplies and tourists, and the bobbing fishing boats, to a horizon so distant it seemed infinite. More than likely, though, the wind – never far off in these parts – would get up, a shiver would run through the poet, and the immense “blue-grey-black” cloud that had been shrouding Hoy would darken Stromness and the first pregnant drops of rain would fall. To Mackay Brown, it was all manna and worthy of memorialising. Everything about Orkney, from its “strange” history to its unpredictable present, fascinated him. From the outset, he made it his subject. “For the islands I sing,” he wrote in 1952 in the prologue to his first collection of verse, The Storm And Other Poems. This is also the opening poem in his soon-to-be- published Collected Poems, which will appear nine years after he died at the age of 75. It gave, too, the title to his posthumously published autobiography, which he wrote in his final years and which he did not want to appear in his lifetime. As his many friends attest, he was a reticent man but by no means a recluse. If he rarely left Orkney, it was not because of insularity. It was simply because he was happy there.
Stromness’s Charm and Mackay Brown's Influence
Stromness’s charm today is not immediately apparent. Flagstoned Dundas Street seems to have been designed specifically to funnel a fearful wind into which a few hardy pedestrians must bend double to make headway. Not for nothing is one of its steep side streets called the Khyber Pass. Numerous blue plaques remind visitors of Orkney’s seafaring heritage. Here is one, for example, in honour of John Rae of the Hudson Bay Company who solved the mystery of the disappearance of Sir John Franklin’s expedition in the Arctic. There is another plaque at 3 Mayburn Court, a modest two-storey flat, where Mackay Brown lived from 1968 until his death in 1996. And that, apart from a shelf of his books in the public library, is about that. Plans to erect a statue, it seems, have fallen by the wayside.
There is, though, at least one biography in the pipeline, which Mackay Brown commissioned Maggie Fergusson, a friend, to write. It is due to appear next year on the 10th anniversary of his death, and will make interesting reading. On the surface, Mackay Brown’s life was largely eventless and governed by writing. As his Scottish publisher, Gordon Wright, says, he was a creature of routine who would get up, breakfast on boiled eggs, tea and toast, and be at his desk from nine until noon. “He was not one of those writers,“ says Wright, “who waited for the muse to call.” Once his day’s work was done, he could do as he pleased.
A Man of Routine, Small Joys, and Domestic Details
In his weekly column for The Orcadian newspaper – (it was called Under Brinkie’s Brae after the hill above Stromness) – he revelled in small joys and domestic details. Nothing was too trivial for him to record and ponder. He wrote with equal enthusiasm about lighting a fire, humping black bin-bags, breakfast TV, Orkney tatties, Sunday school picnics and dead seagulls. In 1983, more than 10 years before he himself was shortlisted for the Booker Prize for his novel, Beside The Ocean Of Time, he wrote: “What a song and dance about such baubles! What does it matter, the opinion of judges, compared to the near-infallible verdict that time sends down its long corridors?” In his first column of 1984, he praised Orwell’s eponymous novel. Of Joyce’s epic novel, Ulysses, he volunteered: “Two mediocre characters, in one boring ordinary day.”
Orkney as a Rich Source of Inspiration
“You won’t find much on the big issues of politics, the economy, education, agriculture, religion, wars and rumours of war, or the rise and fall of rotten regimes – the sort of controversies that create whole crops of blustering letters to the editor,” acknowledges the writer Christopher Rush, who was a friend of Mackay Brown’s. “Like Blake offering you eternity in the palm of his hand, Brown’s vision encompasses the whole of Orkney’s history in one harmonious weave. As you read, you become aware of how the Orkney year is quartered like bread, made up of equinoxes and solstices and always beautifully divided. Quickly you inhabit the Orkney psyche and the Circe of these islands begins to work the spell, threatening to turn you into one of the many stones that stand and stay.”
Hotels in Orkney: Exploring the Island's Beauty
Orkney, with its captivating landscapes and rich history, attracts visitors from all over the world. Exploring the Neolithic sites, picturesque coastlines, and charming towns requires a comfortable place to stay. Luckily, Orkney offers a range of hotels to suit different preferences and budgets.
Luxury Hotels for a Lavish Experience
If you seek a luxurious stay with top-notch amenities and unparalleled service, Orkney has some exquisite options. From stunning sea views to elegant interiors, these hotels provide a truly indulgent experience. Whether you prefer the rugged beauty of the coast or the tranquility of the countryside, these luxury hotels offer the perfect base for your Orkney adventures.
Mid-Range Hotels for Comfort and Convenience
For those looking for a balance between comfort and affordability, Orkney has several mid-range hotels that offer modern amenities and a welcoming atmosphere. These hotels are conveniently located near popular attractions and provide a cozy retreat after a day of exploring. With comfortable rooms, friendly staff, and excellent facilities, these hotels ensure a pleasant stay without breaking the bank.
Budget-Friendly Options for the Thrifty Traveler
Traveling on a budget doesn't mean compromising on quality. Orkney has a variety of budget-friendly hotels that provide clean and comfortable accommodations at affordable prices. These hotels are perfect for thrifty travelers who want to experience the beauty of Orkney without spending a fortune on accommodation. With their convenient locations and essential amenities, these hotels offer great value for money.
Whether you're a luxury seeker, a mid-range traveler, or a budget-conscious explorer, Orkney has a hotel to suit your needs. Choose your preferred accommodation and embark on a memorable journey through the enchanting landscapes of this captivating island.
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