Scottish Sunday: Arts: Culture

Stalemate: The Battle for Ownership of the Lewis Chessmen

WHO OWNS the Lewis Chessmen? For the SNP government in Edinburgh and their Labour opponents in London, squabbling over whether this huddle of priceless medieval artefacts belongs in Scotland or England, the answer might seem obvious. But the fact they are contesting the issue at all, and that their conclusions directly contradict each other, only goes to prove that the answer is very far from clear. In fact, the truth about the Lewis Chessmen is infinitely more complex and colourful than the usual black-and-white certainties common to the games of politics and chess.

A Mysterious Journey

The full story of these enigmatic little figurines, where they come from and why their ownership matters, begins about three centuries ago, with a mysterious ship caught in the jaws of an Atlantic gale off the west coast of Lewis. The vessel narrowly avoided shipwreck by sheltering in the mouth of an inlet called Loch Resort. That night, while the crew rode out the storm by drinking, blethering and playing board games, a sailor boy in their midst made plans to escape his personal hell of confinement and on-board bullying. But not before grabbing the most tradeable things he could lay his penniless hands on - the captain's precious ivory chessmen. It may have taken more than one trip, but the boy managed to swim ashore with almost 100 of the fist-sized pieces in a bundle on his back.

The Murder and the Burial

Unknown to him, however, a cowherd was watching from the shore. When the boy made his final landing, the cowherd sprang to the chase, determined to get his hands on whatever riches the soaking sailor had under his arm. In the struggle that followed the boy was killed. The herdsman buried his victim's remains on the moor and lugged the loot home. When he examined the bag's contents, the cowherd grew afraid that the glowering figures inside might prove evidence against him, should anyone launch a hunt for the missing crewman. So, under cover of darkness, the murderer took the chess pieces from his remote bothy to the Mains of Uig, about 10 miles away, and buried them in a sandbank.

The Rediscovery of the Chessmen

Years later, the herdsman was hanged in Stornoway for abusing women, but before he died he confessed to his earlier sin and told of the buried treasure. The pieces remained undiscovered for a century or more until, around 1830, a cow belonging to a man called Calum nan Sprot, aka Malcolm Macleod, hooked a creamy white object out of the dune with its horns. Falling to his hands and knees, Macleod began to dig, eventually uncovering dozens more of the fairy-like figures.

The Ownership Dispute

The Lewis Chessmen have a convoluted history of ownership, with some pieces currently residing in the British Museum in London and others in the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh. This has sparked a dispute between the two governments over rightful ownership. The Labour party argues that the chessmen should remain in London where they were acquired, while the SNP government believes they should be returned to Scotland where they were discovered.

Hotels in Scotland: Combining History with Luxury

Scotland offers a range of hotels that not only provide luxurious accommodation but also immerse guests in the rich history and culture of the country. From grand castles to charming country houses, here are a few hotels that capture the essence of Scotland's heritage:

Glamis Castle Hotel

Located beside the majestic Glamis Castle in Angus, this hotel offers guests the opportunity to stay in a historic setting. The castle, which is known for its connections to the royal family, provides a stunning backdrop for a memorable stay. Guests can explore the castle grounds, enjoy fine dining, and experience the grandeur of a bygone era.

Eilean Donan Castle Hotel

Perched on a small tidal island in the western Highlands, Eilean Donan Castle is a picturesque fortress with a rich history. The nearby Eilean Donan Castle Hotel offers comfortable accommodation overlooking the castle and Loch Duich. Visitors can enjoy breathtaking views, explore the surrounding area, and learn about the castle's fascinating past.

Inverlochy Castle Hotel

Set against the stunning backdrop of Ben Nevis, Inverlochy Castle Hotel in Fort William provides a luxurious retreat with a touch of regal charm. This historic castle-turned-hotel offers elegant rooms, fine dining, and access to a variety of outdoor activities. Guests can indulge in the beauty of the Scottish Highlands while experiencing true Scottish hospitality.

Cameron House on Loch Lomond

Situated on the shores of Loch Lomond, Cameron House is a luxurious hotel that combines modern comfort with traditional Scottish elegance. The hotel offers stylish rooms, a spa, and a range of dining options. With its stunning location and proximity to Scotland's natural beauty, Cameron House provides a memorable stay for guests seeking a blend of luxury and history.