Central Europe has some of the world’s prettiest capital cities, all within striking distance of each other. Follow this itinerary and see eight of them in eight days. By Sarah Cooper
VISITING EIGHT countries in a little over a week may sound overwhelming on any
other continent, but the close proximity of destinations in central Europe allows you to travel easily. There are still areas that are dusting themselves off from the turbulence of
modern history, but this in itself gives you an appreciation of what the region has endured - and achieved.
It's easy to balk at the notion of a holiday in motion, but moving on rather than staying put will grant a fresh perspective on a culture - particularly when it comes to central Europe. The crumbling of once-sprawling countries
has created an intriguing patchwork of evolving states and by exploring, you happen upon places you might have previously disregarded.
The cluster of countries is such that, in just more than a week, you can easily take in eight cities. The capitals often offer similar sights - there's invariably a St Something-or-other and an Old Town district - but each holds their own unique appeal. Plus, the journey between each metropolis enables you to engage with the landscape and locals, and it's this that sets this particular city break apart.
Poland's is a good place to embark on your journey, but forego Warsaw for the cultural capital of Krakow. Home to a large population
of artists, there's a vibrant blend of galleries and museums as well as the royal castle and St Mary's basilica. Head to one of the bars in the Old Town, toast your holiday with a shot of tongue-numbing vodka, and then it's time to get moving.
Break yourself in gently by taking a sleeper train from Krakow to Prague. The journey will take nearly nine hours and, while there won't be much to see out of the window, you'll be rocked to sleep in your own, clean compartment, before waking up in Prague in time for breakfast.
The Czech capital may be relatively small, but it encompasses the baroque charm and café culture characteristic of the region. There's Prague castle, with its three courtyards and museums, and Golden Lane, once home to Franz Kafka, while a visit to the Jewish quarter will give you a humbling appreciation of the city's history.
Depending on the type of train you opt for, it can take from between four to seven hours from Prague to Vienna. If you decide upon the longer journey, you'll be treated to views of alpine-fresh hills and local villages. If you stay in the capital, you'll discover Vienna to be one of the most pristine destinations on the trip. Focus on the heart of the city, where you'll find St Stephen's cathedral and the Belvedere gallery.
A mere 40 miles separate Vienna and Bratislava, so Slovakia's capital is an 80-minute bus ride away. If you're visiting during the warmer months, splash out 23 on a hydrofoil trip. This boat zips up and down the Danube from April to November, taking you to Bratislava in less than two hours. There's barely a ripple on the river, so the trip's smooth, plus you'll pass scenic waterside towns as you motor east.
Today's Bratislava has a population of less than 500,000, but it was once an important cog in the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Situated at the foot of the Carpathian mountain range, its cosmopolitan feel and Gothic architecture is captured in the Old Town. Explore the sights of St Martin's cathedral before indulging in the satisfyingly heavy local cuisine and a bottle of Slovak riesling.
Then it's off to Hungary. The Danube stretches from Bratislava to Budapest, so you can once again take the warm-weather hydrofoil. Budapest can be reached in two-and-a-half hours for up to 89, or if you're in a rush, share a taxi and split the cost of around 160. Budapest may have a little more graffiti than Vienna, but its location sets it apart from its Austrian equivalent. With the Danube slicing the city into busier Pest and greener Buda, you're able to wander the forests of the hills before enjoying a drink in a buzzing bar. There's St Stephen's basilica and the turreted Castle District, but it's the House Of Terror - a museum housed in the former headquarters of the secret police - which will give you a sense of what Hungarians endured through its wars and regimes.
From Budapest, you can take an eight-hour sleeper train to the Serbian capital of Belgrade. Make the effort to wake up as the sun rises - many of the fields on this leg of the journey are filled with sunflowers, and make for an oil painting of a view. Serbia has struggled more than most in recent times. Milosevic's tyrannical rule of the Nineties crippled the nation with hyperinflation and conflict, and it's only been six years since the president relinquished power. Serbia is recovering from its dictatorship and Belgrade's many plazas, historic monuments and pretty whitewashed buildings are fuelling the tourist industry.
A direct highway connects Belgrade to Croatia's Zagreb, and for around 160 for two days you can hire a car in Serbia before dropping it off in Croatia. There are issues to be aware of when driving, and some travellers have reported having to bribe border officials with beer. But motoring your own way across a foreign country isn't all wrong turns and border woes. Driving lets you see everyday life and gives you a feel for the countryside and culture.
Zagreb's architecture reflects the city's endeavour to blend modernity with tradition - you'll spy church spires among high-rise towers on its skyline. It's ideally placed for a stop-off, as transport links are excellent. From Zagreb, you can head over to the coast, or across the border into Slovenia. The latter's metropolis, Ljubljana, can be reached by train in less than two-and-
a-half hours and its squares, cafés and monuments, such as the fountain of three Carniolan rivers, add a distinct charm which rounds the trip off perfectly.