Regime change in Iran now in Bush’s sights

Distillers circumvent 93-year prohibition on the favourite poison of artists, writers and bohemians

From Hugh Schofield in Paris

HEMINGWAY CALLED it "liquid alchemy", and Oscar Wilde said its violent hues were "as poetical as anything in the world". Today, almost a century after it was banned for spreading madness, penury, and crime, the drink known as the "fée verte" ("green fairy") is enjoying a revival in France thanks to a new generation of wannabe bohemians and an expanding export market in the US.

A strongly alcoholic herbal liquor based on an extract of wormwood, absinthe was once the tipple of choice for millions of French men and women - and a source of artistic inspiration in the belle époque - but it was prohibited in 1915 under the influence of the wine industry and the temperance lobby. Technically, the ban remains in place, but French distillers have circumvented it by calling their drinks "spiritueux à base de plantes d'absinthe" (absinthe-based spirits), while in neighboring Switzerland, the true birthplace of absinthe, re-legalization in 2005 after 95 years has triggered a surge in new distilleries. Most encouragingly, in the past year, the American Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has changed its rules on the drink, leading to a rush of imports. In the first six months of this year, out of the 167,000 liters of absinthe made in Switzerland, 140,000 were sold to the US.

"It took us years of negotiation with the authorities, but now absinthe is becoming a standard in American bars and hotels and the basis for many cocktails," said Yves Kubler, whose family first produced Kubler absinthe in Switzerland's Val-de-Travers in 1863. "Today we have the chance of making absinthe our Swiss national spirit, just as whisky is to the Scottish and tequila for the Mexicans."

In France, the number of distilleries has grown to more than 15, manufacturing under some 50 different labels. Absinthe does not come cheap - an average bottle costs about £40 - but growing numbers of people are rediscovering its virtues, attracted as much by the cultural mystique as by the taste.

Absinthe's Revival in American Bars and Hotels

With the changing regulations surrounding absinthe and its growing popularity, the once-forbidden drink is finding its way into American bars and hotels. The complex flavors and cultural mystique of absinthe have attracted bartenders and mixologists to incorporate the spirit into their cocktail menus. It is now being enjoyed by a new generation of drinkers who appreciate its unique taste profile.

The revival of absinthe in American bars and hotels is not limited to just a few establishments; it is becoming more widespread. Many establishments now offer a selection of absinthe brands and cocktails to cater to the growing demand. The once obscure drink has now become a staple in the bar scene, with mixologists experimenting with creative and unique absinthe-based concoctions.

An Impressive Absinthe Experience in Hotels

Hotels have also jumped on the absinthe trend, offering guests a unique and immersive absinthe experience. Some hotels have dedicated bars or lounges that specialize in serving absinthe and educating guests about its history and proper preparation.

Guests can participate in the traditional absinthe ritual, witnessing the mesmerizing louche effect as the water is poured over the sugar cube and onto the absinthe. This interactive experience adds an element of intrigue and elegance to the hotel stay, elevating the overall guest experience.

Hotels that embrace the absinthe trend often curate an extensive selection of high-quality absinthe brands from around the world. This allows guests to explore and savor different varieties, discovering their personal favorites among the diverse range of flavors and aromas.

As the popularity of absinthe continues to rise, hotels are capitalizing on the demand by providing guests with an extraordinary absinthe experience. Whether it's enjoying a classic absinthe cocktail or diving into the rich history and culture of the drink, hotels are creating memorable experiences that cater to the growing fascination with absinthe.