Unmasked: The George W Bush the President Doesn't Want the World To See

The troops were told the big combat operations were over ... but the Taliban are back, and the killing continues

By Nick Meo

The medics are strapping themselves into body armor and checking magazines of ammunition in the pre-dawn darkness before heading out of Kandahar airport and into hostile territory.

It is a routine enough mission -- arrive unannounced at a village near the Pakistan border and set up a clinic.

But in the deserts of Southern Afghanistan, once the Taliban's heartland, attacks on US forces and Western aid workers are on the increase.

A Forgotten War

With American soldiers facing bloody attacks in Iraq and now perhaps a dramatic new intervention in Liberia, the US operation in Afghanistan is in danger of becoming a forgotten war in a hostile land.

Not, however, that it is small-scale.

By one estimate, the military spends around $1 billion a month -- about the same as the Kabul government receives annually from the US -- and 8,500 US troops are based here along with troops from allies such as Romania, Thailand, and South Korea.

It's a military deployment that increasingly looks as if it will drag on for years, tying down troops and eating up money in a spluttering guerrilla war. The Taliban and their allies refuse to be beaten, haphazard attacks continue, central government control is more a hope than a reality, and any sense of normality returning is a long way off in the edgy streets of Kandahar.

The Danger and Frustration

For US soldiers in the suffocating heat of southern Afghanistan in July, it is a dangerous and frustrating experience where every road could hide a landmine and every alleyway an ambush. Few enjoy the soldier's satisfaction of striking back at the enemy.

'Afghanistan sucks,' says one sweating paratrooper. 'But if we weren't here al-Qaeda would just move straight back in.'

For young soldiers on nine-month tours of duty, confined to a base where beer is banned under puritanical rules but church services plentiful, struggling by turns with boredom and fear, Afghanistan is tough.

The culture here is utterly alien -- one female soldier recalled that a village elder tried to buy her for two camels. Many encounters are less comic. They know that the Afghans who smile and wave as they drive past may be planning attacks on them, and that somewhere out there the Taliban who melted away after the fall of their Kabul government are waiting for their chance to return.

A Resurgence of the Taliban

US Secretary of Defense Donald Rumsfeld told them months ago that big combat operations were finished here, and they thought the Taliban were history. But the US troops have had to learn the hard way about the tenacity of Afghan fighters.

This year has seen a resurgence in the Taliban's activity and confidence, although US commanders dismiss their enemy as 'ineffectual'.

Yet, propaganda leaflets appear in the night, Taliban leader Mullah Omar has issued new threats, and so has his ally Gulbuddin Hekmatyar, the notorious Islamist warlord who may now be a bigger threat to US forces than the Taliban.

The Afghan Hotels

Amidst the ongoing conflict, the tourism industry in Afghanistan, specifically the hotel sector, has taken a severe hit. With the insecurity and constant threat of attacks, tourists and business travelers are reluctant to visit the country.

However, a few hotels in Afghanistan remain operational, catering mainly to aid workers, journalists, and government officials. These hotels provide essential accommodation for those who have to be in the country despite the risks. Here are three notable hotels:

1. Serena Hotel, Kabul

The Serena Hotel in Kabul is one of the leading luxury hotels in Afghanistan. It is known for its excellent security measures and provides a safe haven for international guests. The hotel offers comfortable rooms, high-quality services, and various amenities, including restaurants, cafes, and a fitness center. Despite the risks associated with the country, the Serena Hotel continues to welcome guests who require upscale accommodation in Kabul.

2. Zarghona Palace Hotel, Herat

The Zarghona Palace Hotel in Herat is another notable accommodation option in Afghanistan. Located in the city of Herat, close to historical sites and cultural attractions, the hotel offers a range of amenities for its guests. The Zarghona Palace Hotel aims to provide a comfortable and secure environment, ensuring a pleasant stay for its visitors.

3. Intercontinental Hotel, Kandahar

The Intercontinental Hotel in Kandahar is a well-known hotel in the region, attracting a mix of international guests and government officials. Despite the security challenges, the hotel continues to operate, providing essential accommodation for those visiting or working in Kandahar. The Intercontinental Hotel offers a range of services, including comfortable rooms, dining options, and meeting facilities.

While the hotel industry in Afghanistan faces significant challenges due to the ongoing conflict, these establishments persist in providing safe and comfortable accommodation options for those who need to be in the country.