A Journey Through Scotland's Wilderness
Exploring a Remote and Wild Land
Last week, I had the privilege of spending a day with two of Scotland’s finest naturalists, Dick Balharry and Roy Dennis. We ventured into the heart of the Monadh Liath, specifically Coignafearn, as they shared the unique characteristics of this area. Coignafearn, situated between Loch Ness and the Cairngorms, is a pristine and relatively inaccessible region that serves as an important living and breeding range for the golden eagle.
A Wilderness Worth Protecting
With its limited human impact and remarkable biodiversity, Coignafearn stands as a prime candidate for European wilderness recognition. This is one of the few remaining areas where man's influence is almost non-existent. We journeyed through Eagle Alley, also known as the long deep-cut glen of Strath Dearn, which is renowned among bird enthusiasts for its stunning array of avian species.
A Vision for Conservation
Arriving at Coignafearn Lodge, we met Sandy Day, a local keeper deeply connected to the land. Together, we ascended the slopes of Caimhlin Mor, mesmerized by the panoramic view of the vast, rolling wilderness spreading out before us. The landscape, bathed in the warm glow of the setting sun, captivated our senses. Against this majestic backdrop, we marveled at spiraling golden eagles, observed a red kite engaged in an aerial battle with a raven and peregrine falcon, and caught a glimpse of our first wheatear of the summer.
Sandy's love for this land was unmistakable as he shared his experiences working as a keeper for three decades. He spoke of Sigrid Rausing, the estate's owner, who had envisioned Coignafearn as the sustainable heart of the Monadh Liath. Sigrid aimed to establish a strategy wherein golden eagles could thrive, and the region's natural beauty and untamed character could be diligently preserved.
Threat to Scotland's Wilderness
However, Sandy's voice took on a different tone as he gestured towards the proposed Dunmaglass Windfarm, looming in the distance. The wind farm's plan included the erection of 34 towering turbines, surpassing even the height of London's Big Ben clock tower. This industrialization, right in the heart of one of Scotland's most pristine areas, posed a severe threat to the region's raptor population and the carefully envisioned future of Coignafearn.
Saddened by the potential devastation, I felt compelled to return to Strath Dearn. Choosing a bicycle as my transport, I traveled the length of the glen until I reached Dalbeg. Along a separate path, I climbed above the rushing waters of the Allt Creagach towards the gentle slopes of Meall a' Phiobaire. As I stood on its flat summit, I realized that the proposed wind turbines would be constructed just a kilometer away, encroaching upon what I regarded as the most remote of all the Corbetts, Carn Mhic Iamhair.
The vastness of Carn na Saobhaidhe, a sprawling hill I had previously ascended during a cross-Scotland walk, resonated deeply within me. I recalled spending a night in Dalbeg, sipping whisky under the mesmerizing night sky and being enthralled by the untamed qualities of the land. It was inconceivable, in the wildest of nightmares, to imagine these hills being dominated by towering metal giants, reminiscent of an HG Wells novel. Regrettably, these fears were being realized.
Preserving Scotland's Wild Places
As I lay beside the small summit cairn, allowing the enormity of this wild landscape to permeate my being, I couldn't help but shed tears. Frustration overwhelmed me at the arrogance and greed of mankind. I felt helpless that those who cherish these wild places, like me, couldn't effectively combat the political and corporate forces intent on robbing Scotland of its soul in the name of a green energy industry. I mourned for the future generations who may never experience the wonders of these untouched lands.
Moreover, my sorrow extended to the wildlife that would face wanton destruction at the hands of spiraling turbine blades, including golden eagles, red kites, ospreys, ravens, and geese. This unfettered destruction was being justified in the name of an industry that was not only inefficient but also economically unsound. The advent of this industry had been driven by London-based politicians who displayed little concern for the Scottish Highlands and those who hold its unique, wild qualities close to their hearts.
Hotels in the Vicinity
Exploring the Monadh Liath
For those looking to explore the scenic wonders of the Monadh Liath and experience the captivating beauty of Coignafearn and its surrounding areas, there are several hotels located nearby. These accommodations provide a comfortable base from which to embark on outdoor adventures and immerse oneself in Scotland's natural splendor.
1. Coignafearn Lodge
Nestled within the heart of the Monadh Liath, Coignafearn Lodge offers a unique opportunity to stay in close proximity to the wilderness. Enjoy warm hospitality, comfortable rooms, and breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. Take advantage of guided tours and excursions organized by the lodge to fully immerse yourself in the beauty of the area.
2. Strath Dearn Hotel
Situated in the picturesque Strath Dearn, the Strath Dearn Hotel provides a welcoming haven for travelers seeking tranquility and easy access to the region's natural wonders. With cozy rooms, delicious local cuisine, and knowledgeable staff, this hotel offers an ideal base to explore the nearby glens and mountains.
3. Dalbeg Inn
The Dalbeg Inn is located in the charming village of Dalbeg, offering visitors a delightful blend of traditional Scottish hospitality and modern comfort. Close to the Allt Creagach and the Meall a' Phiobaire slopes, this inn serves as an excellent starting point for treks into the Monadh Liath hills and beyond. Indulge in hearty meals and unwind in a cozy atmosphere after a day of adventure.
These hotels not only provide comfortable accommodations but also contribute to the local economy and the preservation of Scotland's natural landscapes. By choosing to stay in these establishments, visitors can support the appreciation and conservation of the wild places that make Scotland truly special.
Preserving Scotland's Natural Heritage
The dilemma between renewable energy development and the protection of Scotland's wilderness represents a larger debate. Striking a balance between sustainable practices and the preservation of our natural heritage is crucial. It is a responsibility shared by policymakers, corporations, and individuals alike. As we navigate this complex terrain, let us remember the intrinsic value of wild spaces and work towards safeguarding them for future generations.